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May 31, 2009
One of the most common annoyances for the water gardener or pond keeper is green water. This problem is particularly prevalent in spring or early summer.
The source of the green colour is a microscopic algae which is so small that it cannot be removed through normal filtration. This algae thrives in spring and summer as there are increased nitrate levels in the pond as a result of increasing fish activity and also the increased sunlight which encourages plant growth. This is also a particular problem in new ponds where the chemical balance of the water has not yet been established.
In terms of preventing green water there are two stimuli to manage, these are nitrates and sunlight. Limiting nitrates in the water can be done by limiting fish stock, removing decaying matter such as leaves and excess fish food and also ensuring that the pond is well planted. Plants will absorb nitrates as part of the natural cycle and it is the excess nitrate that algae so readily exploit. Managing sunlight must be approached in a realistic manner. Providing shade over and around the pond will have a beneficial effect on the pond habitat. Ensuring that pond plants themselves cover a substantial proportion of the water’s surface will also restrict the available sunlight for algal growth.
These preventative steps will certainly limit the possibility of green water but will not guarantee it never occurring. These days, there is an easy solution to the problem with the use of UV clarifiers. UV clarifiers work by killing the algae and causing the dead algae to form clumps which can then be removed through filtration.
May 29, 2009
Water features come in all shapes and sizes, from the grandest and most ornate fountains to a tiny self contained bubble fountain. Whilst water features can make a fantastic addition to any pond, there true adaptability is probably best realised in the smallest of yards and gardens where the concept of a pond is probably a complete non-starter.
The broad spectrum of designs available off the shelf means there is a simple readymade approach to introducing water in the garden. For the more creative or those seeking to create something that has more of a small scale pond theme it is very simple to create a bespoke design utilising either a standalone receptacle such as the popular half barrel. Alternatively, a recessed small pool in the garden could be covered with stones or similar to create the effect of a fountain simply rising out of the middle of the garden.
The beauty of creating your own water feature is the ability to ensure that the feature compliments the existing garden and can fit discretely in a complimentary manner. There is also the obvious sense of satisfaction. There are many plants that will thrive in small containers and provide that small pond feel. It is, however, best to avoid fish in these small containers as the temperature variations will be too great.
For any water feature that creates a splash, pretty much anything beyond a modest bubble fountain, it is essential to ensure that the catching area is sufficiently large to catch the majority of splashing water. Whilst any pond or water feature will require water top up’s, the thought of doing this daily could easily become a bore.
May 28, 2009
One of the most versatile types of water feature is the waterfall. The versatility of a waterfall feature is that they can be made on either a small or grand scale. They can also, easily be made to replicate a natural feature or they can be entirely artistic and contemporary in design with no concession to appearing natural.
A waterfall design is fundamentally very simple. There are a minimum of two collecting ponds, typically the lower pond will be the main pond. Water is pumped to the higher collecting pond from the lower one and the water then flows from the top pool down the water course eventually returning to the lower pool.
Constructing the water course offers the same choices as creating the pond itself. Concrete, preformed or flexible liners are all available materials. One consideration when designing your waterfall is the reverse of excavating your pond. Rather than needing somewhere to home all the excavated soil, it is quite likely you will need to identify a source of building materials to build up the surrounds for the water course. Needless to say, if you are designing both a pond installation and a watercourse at the same time, there is a beneficial relationship here. Perhaps even, the waterfall could be an idea borne out of this need to identify a use for the excess soil.
When using a flexible liner or concrete to create a bespoke design it is wise to ensure that any pools along the water course slope backwards against the direction of flow. This will ensure that the pool does collect water. A poorly constructed pool may result in continuous flow rather than collection point.
One hugely important consideration is the size of the pump. Too small and your waterfall may prove to be a paltry trickle. It is suggested that for every centimetre width of a waterfall, a flow of 150 litres per hour is required.
May 27, 2009
For truly spectacular water features, modern resorts such as Las Vegas are pushing the boundaries of water art to the extreme in creating dramatic and impressive displays. Whilst the scale is clearly breathtaking, it is nigh on impossible to match the sense of great art achieved by one of the world’s most famous fountains, the Trevi Fountain in Rome.
Designed as an entry in an architectural competition held by Pope Clement XII in 1732, the fountain was eventually completed in 1762. Unfortunately this was to be after the death of the designer, Niccolo Salvi.
Part of the impressive nature of the Trevi is the sheer scale, coupled with the fact that the fountain is actually squeezed into a very small square. The backdrop for the fountain is the Palazzo Poli and features statues of Neptune flanked by Health and Abundance with attending marine horses and tritons. With such a dramatic backdrop and a thunderous roar of water, all in such a confined space, this truly is a sensory feast to behold. Albeit, most likely from within a very dense crowd.
The waters for the fountain are provided by an ancient underground aqueduct which also provides water to other fountains around the city of Rome.
May 26, 2009
When designing your pond there are a number of factors you will have to consider as a matter of course for the project to ever get off the ground. These will be things such as location and construction method.
In addition to these essential considerations, there are a number of other things to consider that won’t stop you having a successful pond but may make a huge difference in how easy it is to manage and maintain and also what type or quantity of fish you are able to keep.
Whilst size will have been one of your essential considerations in pond design, it may be worth re-visiting your choice. If your pond is intended for fish and you have limited the size for budget reasons rather than available space, then it is important to consider that the larger the pond, the easier it will be to maintain. A larger volume of water is more stable in temperature and chemical makeup which will aid fish husbandry.
Plumbing and wiring
Designing your pond with adequate filtration and cleaning capacity will be much easier than retro fitting at a later date. It is also worth having a water supply either positioned close to the pond or even an automatic water top up using a ball cock. Either approach should save much time rolling and un-rolling hosepipes, during summer in particular.
Shade
Providing some shade for your pond will give the fish somewhere to hide in the midday summer sun. Providing shade will also have an influence on the additional wildlife you can attract. Not only this but shade is an important tool in tackling algae and blanket weed which thrive on direct sunlight.
May 25, 2009
Fitting a rigid pond liner is most likely the fastest possible method to not only install a pond, but to install a durable, long lasting and low maintenance pond, that is, assuming you fit it well.
An appeal of the rigid pond liner is the sheer simplicity behind the idea. Having identified the liner shape that best suits your plot and design aspirations, dig a hole and in goes the liner. Fill it with water, some plants and some fish and Bob’s your uncle. In truth the process is almost that simple, it just requires a little care to ensure that each of the steps is performed in a satisfactory manner.
The most durable materials used in constructing preformed liners is fibreglass. This material also has the advantage that it does come in a variety of colours. One consideration in choosing a pond liner should also be transportation. It is quite likely you will make your purchase from a catalogue due to the inability of any retailer to hold extensive stock of the hundreds of available shapes. Take advantage of this method of purchase to ensure the liner is delivered to the ponds eventual location.
There are two key elements in ensuring the way you fit the pond assists in prolonging the life of the installation. The pond excavation should be as level as possible. Having a level surface will ensure that your pond does not look off kilter but will also maximise the volume of water held. Importantly though, the level base, covered with a layer of sand will reduce stress on the liner. With a litre of water weighing exactly 1Kg, or a bag of sugar, a pond liner is supporting a substantial load. The more the liner is supported the better. It is for exactly this reason that the excavation should also follow the shape of the liner as closely as possible. When the liner is fitted, it is important to backfill the cavity between the liner and surrounding earth. As backfilled soil will pack less densely than undisturbed earth, the less backfilling required the better. All of this care is to ensure that the liner is simply performing the job of a waterproof membrane and not acting as a load bearing structure.
With these simple actions followed, you should find that a preformed liner not only gave you a very simple and speedy pond solution, but also one that lasts for many years with minimal maintenance requirements.
May 24, 2009
New pond syndrome is a common phrase to encounter when discussing or reading about fish health or husbandry issues.
Whilst it is a common and accepted concept, what is the actual underlying issue? When judging your new pond by human standards it is probably accurate to say that in many instances, new is considered best, not worst, so what is the issue?
Possibly the simplest way to understand the concept is to think of the water as a complex eco-system in its own right. This is not just a pool where the fish choose to swim but a 24/7 habitat in which the fish will respirate, eat and produce waste. To cope with all of this extra activity, the pond water needs to have a mechanism for processing waste products and other pollutants. These extra functions are carried out in nature by micro-organisms such as bacteria.
With your new pond installed, it will, more than likely be filled with tap water. In stark contrast to established pond water with its vibrant organic life, tap water has been meticulously cleaned and processed to pass very high hygiene standards.
As soon as you introduce fish to this freshly filled inert water environment, they will begin to pollute the water. Due to the almost total lack of bacterial life present in the water, the water will have no capacity for handling these pollutants. It is easy to understand how this will rapidly lead to issues of poor water quality and distress for your fish.
One of the key tools utilised in managing pond water quality is a biological pond filter. Unfortunately these are not a shortcut to avoid new pond syndrome. A biological filter uses exactly the same biological processes to manage water quality and requires a build up of bacterial growth over a number of weeks to function properly.
The key tool in avoiding issues is patience. A few weeks for your pond to settle with new plant life and a running filter will avoid many issues when fish are introduced. By introducing fish gradually, you will also give the water time to adjust. Bacteria in the filter will grow more rapidly in response to the introduction of fish and their resulting pollutants. This is a gradual process and patience will avoid overwhelming a delicately balanced system.
May 23, 2009
The goldfish is a specific golden coloured type of lowland carp. The biology of the goldfish is well suited to still and slow waters. The lowland waters in which goldfish have traditionally existed are the types of environments where all manner of pollutants collect. It is the resulting evolved resilience of these fish that enables them to live in somewhat meagre conditions (such as a goldfish bowl) and enable them to thrive in the relatively luxurious surroundings of a garden pond.
The basic requirements of goldfish are essentially the same as for any fish. A need for food, oxygen and a reasonable quality of water. It is the broad spectrum of tolerable limits that make goldfish hardy and subsequently, so popular.
Providing the water temperature does not vary rapidly, goldfish will manage in a temperature range from below freezing to around 30ºC. A further advantage of goldfish is that they will manage with lower levels of dissolved oxygen than many other fish species.
The goldfish will be active from around March to October when the water has reached a temperature over 8ºC. The fish should be fed a small quantity many times a day and the use of colour enhancing foods should help to bring vibrant colours and markings to the fore.
May 22, 2009
Water features are very popular due to the variety of designs that cater to almost any taste and setting. The joy of water features is that they are both visually pleasing and vaguely hypnotising in a pleasant way. The steady sound of running water often introduces a sensory backdrop with a natural feel. This is in clear contrast to a world filled with the synthetic sounds of TV’s, radios and traffic.
Water features are phenomenally versatile and range from a grandiose addition to an existing pond to a tiny indoor cascade. The breadth of choice is one of their great appeals. Your local garden or aquatic centre probably boasts a range of dozens of different styles with further off the page offerings of many more designs to suit every budget.
Water features can be off the shelf models which do come in many shapes and sizes to a simple kit design that has all of the necessary components but requires construction, to the totally bespoke design that you yourself have created.
There are three basic designs of water feature which are fountains, cascades and waterfalls. In an area with limited space the most practical type of feature will most likely be a modest bubble fountain or cascade. For the fortunate owner of a sizeable pond, there may well be the option to indulge a fantasy for a miniature Niagara Falls and a fountain to compete with the upward flow of Old Faithful.
May 21, 2009
A garden pond is a living breathing environment that has a continuous flow of waste products being transferred into the water by both its occupants and external factors. As the pond is a self contained environment, there are two possible outcomes. The waste products are either utilised by an organism within the pond or, somehow, somewhere the waste will build up.
Most of the waste products in a pond will be effectively utilised by another pond resident. It is this balance that enables a natural pond to survive without mechanical or chemical intervention. The one waste product that nature struggles to overcome is the build up of silt or sludge. Silt and sludge build up is the eventual outcome of a build up of organic waste. The organic waste is a mix of fish waste, plant decomposition, uneaten food and all topped off with those nuisance tree leaves that weren’t cleared out of the water.
Every pond will experience both sludge and silt build up over a long period of time. In nature, a key defence against this problem is simply the volume of water. Larger ponds will experience silting up over a significantly extended period of time. Even these ponds, without intervention, will eventually silt up. Smaller natural ponds are quite often only temporary in their nature and these will silt up far quicker.
A garden pond is at far more risk of silting up if left unchecked. The sheer volume of aquatic life present in a proportionately small body of water presents particular issues for excessive organic waste production. There are pond treatments available that will introduce bacteria to breakdown pond sludge and significantly reduce this issue. Ultimately, in order to remove silt build up you will need to clean out the pond. This is usually done through the use of a pond vacuum. The old fashioned technique of draining a pond and scraping all of the mess into a bucket or wheelbarrow is still effective but certainly less favoured.
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