 | |  | | New Pond - For Beginners & Intermediates |
| Let's Get Started
If you only learn one thing from this, it will have been worthwhile. Remember, as in most pursuits, people have different views and it is up to you to decide which way to proceed, not necessarily who is right or wrong. Arm yourself with several good books and read the specialised magazines. We cannot stress too strongly that you should learn as much as you can before putting a spade to the ground. We hear too many times: "I wish I hadn't done that'', ''if only I had done that'', etc. A graph pad is particularly useful to sketch out your desired pond to scale and a notepad to make notes as you take on board useful information. You will need to set yourself a budget you can work within and set aside 10% for contingencies.
Where & Where Not to Site Your New Pond
Plan the basic position of the pond; most people like this to be within viewing distance of the main room of the house. Wildlife ponds may be the exception and are often located in a quiet corner of the garden. Having considered where, now decide if it is a suitable location. Various places are undesirable: under a tree for example; the main roots can easily penetrate most any pond walls; soft, fibrous roots will be stopped with Aquatix-2u Prolene underlay. If the roots don't prove troublesome, the falling leaves certainly will. If near a tree is the only location for you, consider building a raised or partly raised pond, keeping the bottom of the pond above the main roots, remembering to use a protective leaf net in the Autumn. Be also aware of mains services: water, electricity, gas, and main drains. Again a raised pond may overcome these obstacles.
Electrical supply
You will be needing a supply of electricity for this pond, so now is a good time to consider how you are going to achieve this. Most pumps come with 10m of cable attached, however UVs usually have 3m. Unless you have a shed or outhouse with a suitable supply close by, you will have to run a new supply to a vantage point. Aquatix-2u have armoured cable with relevant switched boxes for this very job, as well as various other switch boxes, weather and waterproof cable connectors and cable sold by the metre. If this job is beyond your skills please, please hire a professional electrician. Above all, the whole thing should be covered with a circuit breaker to make the whole thing safe. The pump and UV will need their own independent switch. This pond is going to need at least a 2-switch box. Consider at least a 3-switched unit - you may want to run some garden lighting, pond lighting, mist-making motor, or something else in the future to add that bit of something special.
What material are you going to use?
Now you are happy with the location, turn your mind to how you are going to do the construction. Remember this is only for the beginner or intermediate pond builder, therefore we will discount a concrete pond. Concrete base and walls are more suited to those of you with some construction/building knowledge and is mostly associated with ponds over 3 feet deep. This doesn't exclude concrete for various jobs around the pond. If you accept the previous point we are left with two types of pond.
Flexible liners
Firstly there are flexible sheet liners and Aquatix-2u offer three types: (1) Butyl Swedish rubber 0.75mm thick. (2) Epalyn EP rubber 0.75mm thick. (3) Supaflex PVC 0.5mm thick. They all carry a LIFETIME GUARANTEE. Buy the best liner your budget will allow.
Pre-formed Ponds
Secondly we come to pre-formed ponds made from fibreglass or some form of plastic, fibreglass being sturdier. The main shortcoming of the preformed pond is they are mostly too shallow. They are suitable if you only intend to moderately stock the pond and offer it some shade in the summer. Our winters are now milder and are less of a problem, unless the pond is less than 18 inches deep. We still prefer a pond with an area at least 3 feet deep - the water mass is more stable. The shape is pre-determined and size for size the cost of the better pre-formed pond is substantially more expensive than the best flexible sheet liner.
Liners - which to choose?
With the sheet liner you get to incorporate your own ideas and make it individual to you. If I'm asked to suggest one liner over another the closest guide I can give is: our heavy duty PVC Supaflex is ideal for ponds requiring a liner up to 10m wide, over this width you should consider Epalyn EP or Butyl rubber liners. The choice between Epalyn EP & Butyl or, indeed to advise on one over the other, is more difficult. Butyl has been with us several decades and is well known for its quality and flexibility. Epalyn EP on the other hand is a "newish kid on the block" with similar characteristics to Butyl in looks, touch, and under stringent testing. At the time of writing Epalyn EP is marginally cheaper than Butyl.
Despatch of and possibilities of liners
We despatch liners up to 8m wide (bulk roll weight is the limiting factor for us) x whatever length direct to your door from our premises (see our liner pages for popular sizes). Larger liners are fabricated in the factory and sent direct to you to save time. Epalyn EP and Butyl can be box welded to the shape of your pond eliminating folds in the corners, being more suitable for true geometric shapes. Other shapes can be done with a pattern. We can give a quote for this service (email or phone us). Extra large liners for large ponds or lakes are fabricated on site.
Calculating the liner size
Length of Liner = Take the maximum length of the pond and add twice the maximum depth + 50cm, or 1ft 6ins for overlaps.
Width of Liner = Take the maximum width of the pond and add twice the maximum depth + 50cm, or 1ft 6ins for overlaps.
50cm (1ft 6") for overlaps is enough for liners up to 6m in length or width, giving 25cm (9") all-round. Over this size, more should be allowed to allow for slight mislaying.
Why not use Aquatix-2u's "pond liner calculator"!
Underlay
We are often asked, "Is an underlay necessary?". Manufacturers invariably like to see an underlay used - so do we. Being "belt & braces" people, we prefer to avoid taking a gamble. If you are the gambling type and your soil is virtually stone free then you could get away without one. However by removing stones that are showing and then considering it is ok is not the way to go, stones in the ground will not stay put and can migrate towards the liner. If in doubt use an underlay. A proper rot proof underlay will offer good protection against the sharp stones, old carpet often used is likely to be rotten within a few years.
Let us consider some design features
By now we know the approximate shape and size we are having. Remember a larger pond is generally more stable and easier to manage than a small shallow pond. Please don't fall into the trap of creating a large shallow pond just because you can give the elusion of a larger pond for a given size of liner. Let us explain: A pond liner 7m x 7m will give you a pond 4.5m x 4.5m x 1m deep or the same liner will give you a pond 5.5m x 5.5m x 0.5m deep (giving you 0.25m overlap all-round in both cases). Although the latter may look more size impressive, being 1 metre longer and wider, the former is a much better pond for the occupants and you the owner, being a more stable environment.
Deep area and shallows
So we agree we should have an area that is at least 1 metre deep. If you are also going to have some shallow areas, be aware of predators taking advantage of the situation. It can be done and the fish definitely like shallows if they feel safe. We prefer to put a shallow section on the west side, where it is the first area to catch the rising sun.
Filters
Are you going to incorporate a filtration system? Filtration is desirable but not essential in a low stocking density. They are however essential in a medium to heavy stocking situation. What you must remember is in a wild/natural habitat, the fish density is nowhere near what we expect in our relatively small eco-system. We personally prefer a pond to have filtration - both the fish and you the pond owner benefit from the extra water quality. OK, so we are going to have a filter.
Filter types
Basically we have 2 types:
(1) pressurised units; usually these are round drums with a watertight lid. The main benefit of these is they can be buried up to the lid at any point from ground level to the top of a rockery (wherever its convenient). This means you can send water up hill to the head of a waterfall after it exits the filter, unlike conventional filters.
(2) Conventional filters: these come in various guises and have been around the longest. These are split into 2 groups, the first group are pump fed, where the pump sits in the pond and is the choice of most people. The return water of this group returns via gravity, meaning it must be down hill all the way from the filter to the discharge point. The second group are gravity fed, the workings of which needs a bit more study, thought and cash but the benefits are worth it. DO REMEMBER FILTERS ONLY WORK EFFECTIVELY WHEN THEY OPERATE 24/7.
When you have decided which is the correct filter for you and your scheme you will have to provide the suitable location for it.
UV's (Ultra Violet Lights)
UV's, ultra violet lamps/lights/clarifiers, a bit misleading but they ALL mean the same thing. UV's sometimes get called sterilisers. There is a difference but need not really concern you.
Why invest in a UV? Simply to eradicate, or more importantly avoid having 'green pea soup' for water. The green water is simply an algae bloom which starts to appear early spring and through the summer months. It is particularly a nuisance in a new pond set-up. You have the opportunity here of deciding if to have a filter with a built in UV or not. If you decide not to, one can be added later if green water proves troublesome. Invariably, it is cheaper to provide a UV at the onset and the filters with a built in UV unit look neater. Both the pressurised filter and the conventional filters give you the opportunity to have to a UV or not.
It should be pointed out here that UV's can and will only control single cell algae (GREEN WATER) - they cannot deal with blanket weed.
Algae can be kept under control with chemicals and semi natural approaches.
Pumps and pump types
There are four main categories of pond pumps.
1. Indoor feature pumps - for small features only
2. Outside feature/filter pumps (including a range of low voltage) - for small to medium water features/pebble pools and fountains. I refer to these pumps as 'particle handling pumps' these are often used as a dual purpose pumps to run a filter system and a fountain at the same time. Whilst the correct size of pump is capable doing the two jobs together, it can be impossible to do both effectively. I say this because fine spray patterns of fountain jets easily become blocked by dirt particles (large geyser jets are not normally a problem). If you take precautions against the fountain jets becoming blocked by incorporating a pre-filter then the muck stays within the pond. The debris and detritus should be sent to the main filter box where the beneficial bacteria that colonise within the media break it down. Also it is much easier for you to deal with, after all we are trying to provide clean, clear and healthy environment for the fish. We at Aquatix-2u suggest two pumps if you desire a fountain. The main filter pump can then be run longer periods without attention and maintenance (this does not mean the filter pump should not be inspected periodically and cleaned). The secondary, usually smaller fountain pump is easier to deal with by fitting a pre-filter if necessary, plus you can switch this on and off as you desire. On balmy summer nights the fish will benefit from the added oxygen of the fountain.
3. Solids handling pumps - for medium to large filters and waterfalls. They can handle solids from 4mm to 10mm, dependant on make and model.
4. External pumps (non submersible) - these are usually the choice of pump for use with a gravity fed filter.
Pump/filter & UV packages
It is worth a mention here that the main hardware, pump, filter and UV can be purchased as a package. This can be a saving financially and also takes away from you what size is required, because the manufacturer has put together balanced units. The only time this would come into question is if your intended waterfall is over the capabilities of the pump. The same applies to long pipe runs where friction loss takes away the efficiency of the pump.
Pump location and water return
Are you going to have a waterfall? If so, don't get too adventurous (unless it is a absolute must have) because a long and/or high waterfall puts extra demands on the pump requirements (big pumps mean more elect consumption). Do not position the waterfall to block what is an obvious viewing area (sorry for stating the obvious). With or without a waterfall the return filtered water is best discharged back into the pond at or near the opposite end to where the pump is sited and the pump should be in the deepest section. Having the pump in the deepest section means any debris and fish droppings will automatically move towards it where it will be picked up and be deposited in the filter, where it should be. By putting the returned water back into the pond well away from the pump a much better circulation is achieved (sorry again for stating the obvious but I have seen/heard of this too many times).
By now you will have made lots of notes and perhaps sketched several different layouts, that is good, at least you haven't gone into it without giving it a thought and you are less likely to say "I wish I hadn't done that".
Plants
Let us give a little thought to plants and planting within the pond. Most aquatic plants are sold in planting baskets and require different planting depths. It is best that you read up on the various types available to find out their planting depth requirements, flowering season etc. Having made a choice, position these on your sketch plan. A pond surface covered by lilies and floating plants is normally acceptable in an informal pond, over that detracts from the effect. Marginal plants are excellent for softening the pond edge and some of them will even migrate terrestrially to increase the effect. Some of the reeds and irises are good at adding height, however care should be exercised with these if your pond is exposed to high winds. This need not be a problem if they are planted in purpose built planting troughs or potted on in larger baskets. Most people tend to leave them in the small planting baskets they are sold in and potted on occasionally. These can tip over in a high wind situation and the resultant mess in the pond is not particularly good. Most ponds are constructed with a ledge to accommodate planting baskets and we will do the same here. These ledges can be between 6" and 12" below the intended water line and wide enough to accommodate planting baskets without them falling over.
Mark out the pond
Lay a rope or garden hose to the shape and size of your pond as per your scaled sketch plan. Stand back and visualise the finished pond from all angles. If you are happy with what you can see in your mind's eye we are ready to get started.
Ponds over 2.5m long and/or wide benefit from having a concrete collar. Remember water finds its own level and nothing looks worse than seeing 6" of liner exposed at one end and nothing at the other. Let us put a concrete collar around this pond (may not be practical if your pond is big enough to warrant bringing in a mini mechanical digger, however it can be done after the digger as finished) on the outside of your rope template start digging a trench about 1 spade widths and about 3" deep. The finish of this MUST BE LEVEL when it is filled with concrete. There are several ways this can be achieved:
1. Spirit level and a long straight edge
2. Water level
3. Laser and dumpy levels on larger projects.
Set out 1, 2 or more pegs in the middle area of the pond (small ponds you will not need these as you can operate from one side to the other with a long straight edge). If your garden is fairly flat your first peg should be hammered in until the top is at the level you want the water to be at (sloping or uneven ground your pegs may have to be longer and measure back down a measured amount). From the centre peg(s) take the straight edge and level and find the lowest point around the template (hope you are with me so far), now hammer in another peg (in the middle of the trench) until it is dead level with your datum peg. From this point on proceed around the trench knocking in pegs every 3 or 4 feet. Before you put in the pegs make sure the trench is going to be 3" to 4" below the top of the pegs. As a double check, keep checking back from the centre datum peg(s).
Next you should go around the inner edge next to the template and tidy it up, making nice flowing lines. This will be the finished edge of the pond. When you fill the trench with concrete you will have to tamp it fairly vigorously with the edge of a stiff board to compact the mix. If the mix is correct this will lift some water to the top. As the water falls into puddles it will show you the low spots where you then put in a little more mix. When you are finished there should be no dips and hollows and finish level with the top of the pegs, giving you a collar 3" to 4" thick. Smooth the surface just a little with a trowel to avoid the aggregate chippings standing proud of the surface. Cover the concrete with wet hessian sacks or wet blankets, particularly in hot dry weather, keep it damp for a couple of days. Concrete cures better when it is kept damp and the end result is stronger and less prone to cracking.
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| Are you ready to start digging?
Day 2 (you can still keep on the wet sacking) you can start excavating the inside by first taking off a few inches all-round, TAKE EXTRA CARE NOT TO LEVER AGAINST THE CONCRETE COLLAR - IT IS STILL VERY 'GREEN'. When you have carefully exposed the inner edge of the collar WE like to take a short bit of board about 6" x 3" and gently rub away the inner top edge of the collar to a radius similar to that of a pencil. Do not be too impatient in this exercise, or you may dislodge a chunk of hardcore and all you are trying to achieve is a nice edge for the pond liner to be turned over. When taking out the centre spoil aim to make the pond walls about 20 to the vertical. Start by taking the whole area down to your planting ledges (refer to your plan) making sure these are level, flat, of adequate width and the correct depth. Mark the ledges on the ground with a nail or something and again take out the centre spoil, still maintaining slightly inward sloping walls some 20 to the vertical. Be aware of your final depth as you progress by using a straight edge or string line across the pond from the collar and measuring down. Over dig the depth by some 2" to 3" and bring back to the require level with a bed of sand, aiming for a gentle slope down to where the pump is going to sit.
With gravity fed filtration systems bottom drains etc would have to be accommodated before the bottom is dressed off. However in this build the system will be pump fed, being the most often used method, certainly by the beginner.
Phew! We've got the least exciting bit out the way.
First lay the underlay
Aquatix-2u Prolene Underlay comes 2m wide and calculating how much is required is simple. Hving found out the length and width of the liner just find the metric square metres and divide this by 2. EXAMPLE: liner required is 6m x 7.5m = 45sq m 2 = 22 = order 23 running metres of Prolene underlay. Whatever method you use to hold the underlay in position until the liner is manipulated into position is up to you. The last thing you want is for some of it to fall down and bunch up in a lump behind the liner. Another thing that can happen laying the underlay is for you to avoid pushing it back to the contours of your design and then securing it at the top and lay the pond liner over this. The result will be areas of liner and underlay not sitting tight back, being like a drum. We usually make some large "staples", 4" to 6" long out thick galvanised wire and drive these through the underlay at strategic points where the pond walls and shelves change direction in order to remove the bagginess. Drive the "staples" in slightly over depth to create a dimple, when you've finished take some scraps of underlay 4" to 6" square and cover the tops of staples with these, hold them in place with duct tape. The top outer edge can be held in position with rocks, slabs etc.
Now is the time to lay the liner
If you have had no help up to this point now is the time to enlist a helper, because you can't be at both sides of the pond at the same time. Drape the liner over the pond, with an equal overhang at the longest and widest points. Hold temporarily in place with slabs, rocks etc. Climb inside with bare feet or soft slippers, push and pull the liner nearly into position, removing as many creases and wrinkles as you can. Your helper should be assisting in this by releasing the pressure on the liner under the slabs and making sure the liner is going down equally. So far so good, if you are happy start filling it with the hose. The water may be cold (you'll get used to it) but it is worth staying in the pond (or going back in frequently if it is a big pond taking a long time to fill) to smooth out more wrinkles as the weight of the water takes over. With a Butyl or Epalyn EP liner it is possible to remove more wrinkles than with most other types of liner.
When it is nearing the top this work can be done from the top. When it is full the liner and underlay is obviously not going to move so remove all the temporary anchor weights. Now is the time to trim off the surplus, how much you leave is dependent upon how the top is to be finished. If you are using slabs or coping stones, 3" to 4" should be enough because when the slabs or coping are bedded in position on cement the cement needs something to adhere to (this is where the concrete collar comes into its own again). If you are just going to lay rocks on the top of it or even bring grass to the pond edge, 9" to 12" of overlap is enough. A point to remember with the latter approach is to make the overlap slope back away from the pond, we don't want any run off from ground water and rockeries into the pond.
Unfortunately this is one situation when water is wasted. We do all the work around the pond and then we empty it, as with the best will, it isn't possible to lay slabs etc. without dropping cement in the water. If we lay slabs, we tend to lay them and then lower the water about 6" to complete the pointing under the slabs to make the seal to the liner, wipe the liner clean as you go. A good tip at this point is, loose rocks and many other items can be held in place with builders expanding foam. It is excellent stuff, but it can be very messy if you haven't used it before and it will make a mess of the new liner if you drop some on it.
When its time to empty the pond you can obviously do this with your new filter pump - do be careful not to let it pump dry. When the water drops to the pump switch it off and then you'll have to get in again and bail it out by hand, wash all the resultant muck to one area and get rid of it all. Before you fill it back up let's site the pump filter etc.
Position the pump & filter
We have to assume you have made the correct choice of pump and filter for type and size. Follow the charts elsewhere on this site for the relevant performances to help you reach an informed decision.
Put the pump and filter in their chosen locations, next join the pump to the filter (sorry some bits may seem common sense to you, but we do get asked this very question) with the right size hose. Avoid excessive length of pipe in your attempt to conceal it, also make the bends as shallow and few as possible. Long pipe runs and bends add to frictional loss, which equates to reduced pump performance. Our corrugated hose is best for this job allowing you to bend it around corners without it going flat and loosing its internal diameter, also being black, algae is not encouraged to grow on the inner walls.
Before you secure the pipe to pump and filter with jubilee type clips there is one job that MUST be done and that is to cut off all the unused sections of the multistage fittings. A multistage fitting looks like an extended telescope and comes with several types and makes of pump and filter. Its purpose is to allow for various diameters of hose. Cut very slightly onto the shoulder of the one that fits your hose. The reason for this is if you cut up to the shoulder, the resultant diameter of the hole is only off the next size down from the one you are using (hope we've explained this point adequately). If we hear of a poor flow rate, failure to attend to this is often the cause. If your chosen filter doesn't have an inbuilt UV and you are using separate UV unit this should be put into the hose run before the filter in this type of set-up.
Next we have to get the return water back into the pond. If you are using a pressurised filter you will use the same flexible hose from the outlet to the chosen return point. Some people chose to return the water via a "spitter" (pond side ornament). This can be done, but with great caution and is best accomplished by putting in the pipe run a flow adjustable 'T' or 'Y' piece. This way the desired spitter gets the water it requires but not at the expense of the total flow rate, most spitters cannot cope with the flow required. This type of return cannot be achieved with the conventional gravity return filter. In lots of cases the conventional filter is sat at the edge of the pond, in which case the water can just run out the box and straight back into the pond via the short stub pipe(s). Of course it is not essential to put the box on the very edge of the pond. For aesthetic reasons you may want set it back a bit and hidden by a shrub or something, in which case you will have to extend the outlet stub pipes. With the smaller filter boxes you may be able to fit a larger bore flexible pipe over these, larger filters very often have bigger bore outlet pipes, in this situation you will need to make the pipe extensions with rigid wall pipe. Always bear in mind, from the outlet of the gravity returned filter the water must have a downward path all the way back to the pond (another obvious point we hear you say). Also, do not make the extensions by fitting something to the inner of these stub pipes, it reduces the diameter and can cause flooding of the filter box.
Another fact some are not aware of: the outlet pipes are of a larger diameter than the inlet for a reason and that is to get rid of the water quickly without flooding - a given pipe will carry much more water under pressure than it will under gravity - so do not impede the return flow. If you are using a gravity return filter you can of course return it back into the pond via a waterfall, however by the nature of this filter it will have to be positioned at the height of the top header pool.
Wire up the electrics
Wire the pump and the UV to its own separate switch point, which we discussed earlier. If you want to conceal the cables and even the pump/filter hosing please feel free to do so.
Two points we will make however
(1) Please make it safe from the garden spade, etc.
(2) Do not cement/concrete it in unless it is in a conduit large enough to extract and feed a new item through.
Before we refill the pond let us run a quick test to make sure everything electrical is working. Put the pump in a tub of water and point the outlet away from you if it is not connected to the hose and switch on for 2 seconds only. This will verify the pump is OK. To test the UV is working some units have an inspection glass and others have milky opaque hose tails which glow when the light is operating. Others have no indication without exposing the tube. If this is the only way to check it, please do not stare at the working lamp, they are dangerous to the eyes (a 2 second glance won't hurt the eyes - follow the instruction book). With the checks complete it is time to fill the pond in readiness for the fish.
Fill the pond - Make the water safe
Now we are ready to fill the pond it is a good time to consider a few things. Firstly, domestic tap water has many beneficial properties in it that benefit the well being of the fish. It also contains things that adversely affect the fish. Most people are aware the chlorine content is detrimental to fish and firmly believe if they leave it standing for a couple of days the chlorine will have gassed off and the water is then safe. It is true the chlorine will have gassed off, but the chlorine is only part of the problem, you are left with chloramines (which is put into our drinking water in increased doses as the weather gets warmer) unlike chlorine it does not gas off.
On top of this our water supply has large amounts of heavy metals present, so we need to make these safe. Most pond keepers will use a Dechlorinator to make the tap water safe, which removes the chlorine, breaks the chloramines bond and locks up the heavy metals.
Purists and koi keepers usually treat their charges to filtered water (water filtered by a domestic filter is not suitable). What about rainwater? Avoid this in large quantities as it is to acidic and is pH unstable, not having been through mother earth to pick up the essential buffering elements.
Find the total volume
We need to find out the total gallons/litres of the pond. When this is found, it should be written down and put somewhere safe for future use because any fish treatments or pond treatments are based upon this figure for dosage. The best way is to borrow, hire, or buy a water flow meter or click here to use our pond volume calculator!
The other way is to do it NOW whilst filling the pond. The very best time and most accurate by this method is through the night when the mains water is at its most consistent pressure. (By an approx calculation - we'll give you this shortly - you can assess roughly when it will be nearing full so you can be there). You will need a 5-gallon drum and a watch that has seconds. Other size drums can used, the larger it is the more accurate you will be, but the formula has to be changed accordingly. You should precisely measure the 5 gallons and mark the container at this level. Now with the garden hose running at maximum, time it to the second how long it takes to reach the 5 gallon mark. EXAMPLE: If it takes 47 seconds to fill to the 5-gallon mark, we now have 5 divided by 47 = 0.10638 (5 decimal places should be close enough) gallons per second. So if the pond takes 5 hours & 11 mins to fill, we have in our pond 1985 gallons. (5 x 3600 + 11 x 60 = TOTAL 18660 seconds)
So now we have 18660 x 0.10638 = 1985.05 gallons. Maintain the hose at this rate and start filling the pond.
To ascertain an approximate volume of this pond or an existing pond you will have turn the pond measurements into averages (not maximums as you did in calculating the liner size) this method is more accurate if you break the pond into sections, either horizontally and/or vertically, if you are able to calculate using pi then circular shapes can also be accommodated. Let us assume for simplicity our pond average is 10 x 6 x 2.5 feet = 150 cubic feet (there are 6.23 gallons per cubic foot - mostly we use 6.25 as the multiplier). Now we have 150 x 6.25 = 937.5 gallons. Based on the above hose flow rate this pond will take nearly 2 hours to fill.
Now the pond is full
Please, please, hold back on your impatience to nip out and by a couple of dozen fish, this is the worst thing you could do. There are no active bacteria, beneficial or otherwise within the system.
First strike up the pump and get the water circulating. Next apply a dechlorinator at the correct dose as per the gallons/litres we found earlier, dilute it in a clean watering can and spread it around the pond (this dilution isn't essential in a new empty pond but we should start correctly). If the UV is switched on TURN IT OFF and leave it off for 2 to 3 weeks. There is a good reason why we should do this, even if the pond water is slowly turning green, any beneficial bacteria that start to accumulate are in free suspension to start with and if they pass by an active UV they will get zapped.
Do not consider any fish, not even 'guinea pig fish' for at least a couple of days to give the pond chance to reach ambient temperature. After a couple of days is a good time to add 'filter bugs' these are sold under various brand names and they are to 'kick start' your new filter. After 2 days the chlorine has gone and the water is warmer, making the bacteria more active and prolific. By the time you switch on the UV the beneficial bacteria will have colonised the filter media where it is to be encouraged and nurtured.
There has to be something for this newly introduced bacteria to feed on, so there has to be some organic matter. You can add a couple of fish to get the whole process going or add a very small amount of fish food or even a slice of bread (leave it 2 days and change it). If you buy 2-dozen fish at this stage you are very likely going to finish up with what is known as "New Pond Syndrome" this is when most, if not all, the fish die after only a few days. Bacteria coat each and every surface within the pond as well as the filter and the quantity goes up and down all the time, dependant upon the occupants and what you put in as food. These bacteria cannot multiply fast enough if you put lots of fish in at a time. The end result is high ammonia and/or nitrite, both these are very toxic to fish. We strongly recommend you buy a water quality test kit, you then know when it is safe to go out to get new fish. You also know you are not adding to the problem of a filter that is not up to speed yet. Do not add more fish until ammonia and nitrite levels are almost zero. Always, always stock up slowly. One final point; do not wash your filter media with tap water, CHLORINE KILLS BACTERIA. Use a bucket of pond water and don't try to make it look new again - a partly dirty filter is better. Wash part of the media this week and do some more in a week or two's time to avoid over depleting the filter bacteria. After a clean up of the filter, partial water change or adding new fish is a good time to add some more filter bugs.
Planting
Now is a good time to go out and get the pond plants you have listed on your shopping list and position them as per your layout plan.
Introducing new fish
Hopefully you are going to stock up slowly. When you arrive home with your bag of fish they will need to be acclimatised to the pond water slowly. To do this open the bag and float it on the pond (most people are aware of this to equalise the bag and pond water temperatures), anchor the bag at the side of the pond. On glary types of day provide the fish with some shade (after all they can't tell you they are under stress), this is only part of the acclimatisation. After 20mins introduce pond water to the bag, increasing the bag contents by about 25% we are now getting the fish adjusted to the difference in water chemistry. After 20mins increase the water in the bag by a further 25%, after a further 20mins do the same again, then after a further 20mins just gently tip the bag and let the fish swim away.
Conclusion
We hope you found something of interest. It was not intended cover each and every section in total depth, but if it made you think and source the answer to a particular problem akin to you, that is good.
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